Teatum Jones — Fall/Winter 2018
Fearless silhouettes of confidence filled the BFC Showspace for the Teatum Jones Fall/Winter ’18 show. This season, the design duo composed a vision of beauty, forming Global Womanhood.
The grounding of this series of work formed from three core emotions of intense happiness, sadness and hope. Building upon this base, 25 unique women including models Munroe Bergdorf, Kelly Knox, singer Foxes, editor Sophia Neophitou and activist Caryn Franklin were asked to describe life experiences that triggered these emotional spectrums. The riveting expansions of emotion were both recorded and premiered upon the screen positioned at the end of the catwalk. This formed a separation between three design stories, reflecting the journey of these lives and uniting women from different social backgrounds, different ages and different ethnicities through this powerful narrative.
Trails of mesh organza in a palette of red, burgundy, pink and cornflower blue responded to the first sequence of questions formed upon the feeling of intense joy. Wrap-around satin wide-leg suits and pleated asymmetric hem lines lead the initial characteristics of the seasons strengths, further commented through the designer’s collaboration with British merino wool specialists John Smedley. The story was followed by midnight hues, adopting a subtly gothic aesthetic that expanded on the conversations that formed around the concept of ‘sadness’. Large industrial eyelets were paired with woven textured yarns and geometric resemblance to form. The two initial stories formed a conclusion, responding to the questions asked in reference to ‘hope’, bringing together their contrasts to form harmony. The fresh palette of mustard, red, bordeaux, white, ivory and cream were spoken through hand-printed floral patterns.
As oversized elements set against gathered silhouettes, boldness and confidence is echoed throughout the personality of the designs, offering a striking balance of reality with romance.
Certain characteristics of drapery and gathering techniques along with the style of prints and the essence of fluidity run throughout the three sequences, building a strand that connects them all, as did their layering techniques, creating tiers within the structure. The shows underlying message of unity fuelled inspiration in the eyes of the audience, as each garment demonstrated femininity, empowerment and freedom.